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Crochet, a needlework technique that uses a hooked needle to create intricate patterns from yarn or thread, has a rich history in America. The development of crochet terms in the U.S. reflects influences from European traditions, the standardization of patterns, and the craft’s adaptation to American contexts.
Early Beginnings: European Roots and American Adoption (17th Century – Mid-19th Century)
Crochet as we know it today emerged in Europe during the 16th century, evolving from techniques like tambour embroidery and shepherd’s knitting. The term “crochet” itself derives from the French word crochet, meaning “hook.” As European immigrants, particularly from Britain, Ireland, and France, settled in North America. during the 17th and 18th centuries, they brought needlework traditions with them, including early forms of crochet.
In colonial America, crochet was not yet a distinct craft with standardized terms. It was often lumped under broader categories like “fancy work” or “needlework.” Terms like “chain” (for the foundational loops) and “slip stitch” (a basic joining technique) likely entered American usage through oral traditions and handwritten patterns shared among women. However, these early terms were inconsistent, varying by region and community. For example, what one group called a “loop” another might call a “knot.”
By the early 19th century, crochet began to gain popularity as a domestic craft, particularly among women of the middle and upper classes. The publication of European needlework books, such as The Lady’s Assistant for Executing Useful and Fancy Designs in Knitting, Netting, and Crochet Work by Jane Gaugain (1840), introduced more structured terminology to American audiences. Terms like “single crochet” (a basic stitch) and “double crochet” (a taller stitch) started appearing in these texts, though their definitions sometimes differed from modern usage. These books, often imported or reprinted in the U.S., laid the groundwork for a shared crochet vocabulary.
The Victorian Era: Standardization and Pattern Books (1840s – 1900)
Baby Bonnet – Free Vintage Crochet Pattern
The mid-19th century marked a turning point for American crochet, driven by the Victorian era’s enthusiasm for decorative arts and the rise of women’s magazines. Publications like Godey’s Lady’s Book and Peterson’s Magazine began featuring crochet patterns, introducing terms such as “treble crochet” (a taller stitch variant) and “cluster” (a group of stitches worked together). These magazines played a critical role in disseminating standardized terms, as they reached a wide audience and encouraged consistency in pattern writing.
During this period, the U.S. began to diverge from British crochet terminology, a divergence that persists today. For example, what Americans call a “single crochet” (abbreviated as sc), the British call a “double crochet” (dc). Similarly, the American “double crochet” is the British “treble crochet.” This split likely arose from differences in how pattern writers interpreted stitch height and naming conventions. As American publishers produced their own crochet books, they cemented these distinctions, creating a uniquely U.S. crochet lexicon.
The late 19th century also saw the introduction of specialized terms for decorative elements, such as “picot” (a small loop used for edging) and “shell” (a group of stitches worked into the same space for a fan-like effect). These terms, borrowed from French and English lace-making traditions, became staples in American crochet patterns, reflecting the craft’s growing sophistication.
The Industrial Age: Yarn Companies and Mass Production (1900–1950)
Lace Shawls – Vintage Crochet Pattern
The early 20th century brought significant changes to crochet, driven by industrialization and the rise of commercial yarn companies. Brands like Coats & Clark and Bernat began producing affordable, standardized yarns, accompanied by pattern books that further codified crochet terminology. Coats & Clark’s The Learn How Book (first published in the 1920s) became a cornerstone for American crocheters, defining terms like “yarn over” (the act of wrapping yarn around the hook) and “gauge” (the measurement of stitch size relative to hook and yarn).
The mass production of crochet hooks, standardized by size (e.g., Size G or 4.0 mm), also influenced terminology. American patterns began specifying hook sizes in letters (A, B, C, etc.), a system that differed from the metric measurements used in Europe. This standardization made patterns more accessible but also entrenched American-specific terms, as patterns were written with these hook sizes in mind.
Irene Blouse – Easy Vintage Crochet Pattern
During the Great Depression and World War II, crochet gained popularity as an economical way to create clothing, home décor, and gifts. Terms like “granny square” (a modular square motif) and “afghan” (a crocheted blanket) became household words, reflecting the craft’s role in thrifty homemaking. The granny square, in particular, became an iconic American crochet motif, with its name evoking the image of resourceful grandmothers crafting from scraps.
The Mid-20th Century: Craft Revival (1950s–1980s)
Crochet Blouse & Dress – Free Vintage Pattern
The post-war era saw a resurgence of interest in handmade crafts, including crochet, as Americans embraced DIY culture. The 1960s and 1970s, in particular, marked a crochet renaissance, fueled by the counterculture movement and a rejection of mass-produced goods. This period introduced playful, experimental terms like “popcorn stitch” (a textured, puffed stitch) and “bobble” (a similar raised stitch), reflecting the era’s creative spirit.
Crochet guilds and community groups, such as the Crochet Guild of America (founded in 1994 but with roots in earlier networks), played a key role in standardizing terms. These organizations published newsletters and hosted workshops, ensuring that terms like “front loop only” (FLO) and “back loop only” (BLO)—used to specify where to insert the hook—became widely understood. They also clarified abbreviations, which became essential for concise pattern writing (e.g., ch for chain, dc for double crochet).
Ripple Pineapple Afghan – Vintage Pattern
The rise of television and craft shows in the 1980s further popularized crochet, with hosts like Carol Duvall introducing terms to broader audiences. Patterns became more complex, incorporating terms like “cable” (a twisted stitch pattern) and “post stitch” (a stitch worked around the post of another stitch for texture), borrowed from knitting but adapted for crochet.
The Modern Era (1990s–Present)
The advent of the internet in the 1990s revolutionized crochet, connecting American crocheters with global communities. Websites like Ravelry (launched in 2007) and YouTube tutorials standardized terms further by providing platforms for pattern sharing and video demonstrations. However, the global nature of these platforms highlighted the U.S.-U.K. terminology divide, leading to confusion among beginners. To address this, many modern patterns now include a “stitch glossary” or specify whether they use “U.S. terms” or “U.K. terms.”
Granny Square Baby Set – Vintage Crochet Pattern
Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok have also influenced crochet terminology, popularizing trendy terms like “amigurumi” (a Japanese term for crocheted stuffed toys, widely adopted in the U.S.) and “temperature blanket” (a project where each row’s color corresponds to daily temperatures). These terms reflect crochet’s adaptability to contemporary culture and its ability to absorb influences from other languages and traditions.
The Craft Yarn Council, established in the 1980s, has been instrumental in maintaining standardized crochet terms in the U.S. Its “Standards and Guidelines for Crochet and Knitting” provide a definitive reference for terms, abbreviations, and symbols, ensuring consistency across publications. For example, the Council’s guidelines confirm that a “half double crochet” (hdc) is a uniquely American term, bridging the height between single and double crochet.
… And a Final Word
Heirloom Layette – Vintage Pattern
The history of crochet terms in the U.S. is a story of adaptation, standardization, and cultural exchange. From its European roots to its modern digital renaissance, crochet’s terminology has grown alongside the craft itself, shaped by women’s magazines, yarn companies, craft guilds, and online communities. While challenges like the U.S.-U.K. terminology divide persist, the resilience and creativity of American crocheters ensure that the language of crochet remains a living, evolving art form. As new stitches, motifs, and trends emerge, so too will the terms that define them, weaving a rich tapestry of craft and culture.